Reflections & Final Images...

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I had a farm in Africa..... Well, ok, I didn't, but how I love that line from Out of Africa - How it brings about the feeling of recalling a wondrous, far-away land. Today I'm on my way home and have had some long flights (one more to go) to reflect on all that I have experienced and learned these past ten days (seems like a lifetime).

There are several random but interesting things that I'd like to share before I sign off- like how much Africans adore and respect President Obama. I knew that he was popular but I never imagined that I would see his image posted everywhere - in shops, hotels and even in the convent of St. Catherine's School.

Another omnipresent sight has been that of children playing soccer - everywhere- and of large groups of people (primarily men) gathered around TV sets watching soccer matches. I remain convinced that soccer is the great global unifier (except for the USA). Indeed, all of Africa is rejoicing in the hosting of the upcoming World Cup in South Africa this summer. I can't wait!!

And speaking of interesting sights, I have always enjoyed seeing photos of African children at school, all dressed in their sharp school uniforms. But I am rethinking how I feel about those uniforms because I have learned that uniforms, unlike in the States where we love them because they simplify things and equalize the kids, can actually be a huge burden on families. The uniform can be what prevents a child from going to school because children aren't admitted to school if they can't afford the uniform. I try not to be too judgemental on other societies but the uniform situation is representative of how the whole educational system (if it can be called a system) in Uganda can be cruel and focused on beating down a child rather than lifting him / her up - that's hard for me to understand and I am happy for the exceptions that I see to this trend of shaming the child. I am also hopeful that schools like the Empower African Children School will serve as a model for educational reform.

Another situation which I hope will continue to improve in Uganda is the life expectancy. Currently, the life expectancy is in the 50's (it was in the 30's a decade ago) and more than 50% of the population is under the age of 15!! It is a country full of young people - I hardly saw anyone over the age of 60. in Uganda, death is a part of daily life - something which is evidenced by the coffin sellers along the road. The danger of this reality is that people can become complacent thinking that there is nothing that they can do to escape or change the situation. However, with all of the efforts being made in health care and education, I think the life expectancy can go much higher in the coming decades.

Of course, there is also much that I will look at with different eyes as a result of this experience. Before this trip, I never much thought about electricity and how much we rely on bright lights to guide our way around town and around our own homes - how we take light and electricity for granted. I am still squinting from trying to adjust to the darkness.

And the whole question of resources and justice brings me to a more philosophical question about what defines poverty and abundance in this life - and who has what ... It's a question which Alexis constantly posed to me throughout this journey. I'm not done figuring out my answer to her question but the truth, I think, is that there are many ways in which each is manifested. Love and laughter are abundant in Uganda, that is certain. For that reason, I cannot forget the people who I met along the way - especially the children who completely melted my heart with a million little gestures like writing me a note or calling me "Auntie." Because her life, with all of its challenges, is filled with these children, I would say that Alexis has a most abundant life. How grateful I am to her for sharing it with me!!

And Agnes... there aren't enough words to express how proud I am of her, how proud I am to have played a tiny role in her formation and how proud I am today to call her my friend. I send a giant message of gratitude out into the universe for Sr. Rose, the Daughter of Charity who started the orphanage where Agnes lived as a young child and where Alexis met Agnes. It is my great regret never to have met Sr. Rose but I know that her spirit lives on in Agnes and Alexis and in all of the profoundly important work of Empower African Children. I can't wait to see how they continue to change the world - one child at a time :)!

Thank you for following my blog!!

Until the next adventure!!

Cecilia :)

The Source of the Nile!!

On my last full day in Uganda, Alexis and Agnes decided that it was time for a little adventure (right - like this trip hasn't been a million adventures). So, thinking that we should go somewhere where we might one day take students, they decided to take me to the town of Jinja, where the source of the Nile is located. There we went on a boat ride and actually went directly to where the water bubbles up from the earth and the Nile is born. It was thrilling!! We were accompanied on our somewhat unstable vessel (where Agnes demanded life jackets - thank you Agnes) by our guide, Elijah, who assured us that he is the very best and most knowledgeable guide. It was a dream come true to be there and to enjoy the beautiful and lush scenery (where supposedly monkeys frolic freely but RATS, I only saw birds). I only regret that I hadn't invested in a safari hat to complete my adventurer look - I really got into imagining that I was on an expedition with Burton and Speke, the explorers known for seeking out the source of the Nile.

After our time floating around the Nile, we visited the beautiful Bujagali Falls where the Nile meets Lake Victoria - another scenic wonder!! It was a marvelous way to spend some of my last moments in Uganda...

But we are not totally finished - a few refelctions still to come....

Vulnerable Children

As you may recall, Empower African Children (EAC) is dedicated to orphans and vulnerable children. But what defines a vulnerable child? What does it mean to be vulnerable? Well, on Wednesday afternoon I learned first-hand what it means to be "vulnerable." Sharon is a beautiful girl of about 15 who is one of the children sponsored by EAC. I spent some time talking to Alexis about whether or not I should write about Sharon's life because it is so painful and I don't want to exploit her or to expose her in any way. However, upon reflection, I know that it is a story worth telling - and, sadly, it is not an extraordinary story in this group of children - it's merely a representative story. I know also that if you were to meet this gorgeous young woman, you would never imagine her situation or the burden placed on her shoulders - I know because I could not have imagined it.

So, Sharon's parents were originally from Rwanda (pronounced "Ronda" as I have just learned). They were Tutsis who fled the Rwandan genocide in the 90's when most of their family members were brutally killed. Sharon's mother, who is sickly, has had five children - an eldest son who is very ill with diabetes and perhaps other illnesses, a second child who died, Sharon, a young son of about 10 and a baby girl. Sharon's father died recently of AIDS. Sharon's cousin, a 22 year old woman, also recently died of AIDS leaving a young baby girl who is now also under the care of Sharon's mother. Sharon's mother and the children live in a tiny one-room space behind a bar where many men come during the night to purchase and consume alcohol. There is no water, electricity, bathroom, etc. To say that it is not a safe environment for a young girl is the understatement of a lifetime.

We went with Sharon to visit her family on Wednesday afternoon (recall that she lives at school thanks to EAC) so that I could better understand the situations of the children of EAC. It was a situation so filled with sadness and despair that it was hard to keep from crying. Sharon's mother did cry recalling how she had been able to afford a good school for her children when her husband was alive. She was also upset because her young son (who is so smart!) was sent home from school because he did not have black uniform shoes.

Of course, we left money for the shoes and I am so grateful that Alexis thought to take some much-needed groceries to Sharon's mother as a thank you for having us over. But of course, these are tiny gestures given the issues that overwhelm this family.

As I looked down at precious Sharon sitting on the floor in that tiny, dark room smiling at her mother and playing with her sister, I realized that all the hopes and dreams of her family are wrapped up in her. Sharon is wise beyond her years (as are most of these children) and she is thriving at her school thanks to the opportunity given to her by EAC. She is getting an excellent education and she is the one who must (and will) lift up her family. She is, quite literally, a shining light in the darkness. I pray that her family stays healthy so that they receive the benefit of Sharon's hard work. I understand now about being "vulnerable" and that these children would be in inescapable, impossible situations of poverty and hardship if it were not for EAC. Sadly, I also realize that there are thousands of other precious children out there who don't have EAC or anyone looking out for them - and I think that thought will stay with me long after I have left Uganda...

International Hospital Kampala (IHK)

International Hospital Kampala is Uganda's premiere medical facility. It was founded by Ian Clarke, a doctor from Ireland, who moved to Uganda in the 80's and first set up a rural hospital outside of Kampala. Alexis wanted me to see this facility so that I could familiarize myself with the full spectrum of medical care in the country (we were planning to go to the public hospital as well but ran out of time). I was glad to see this excellent hospital because I am somewhat aware of the other end of the spectrum through my friend, Kim Bouldin Jones, who is working through Medical Facility Aid http://www.medicalfacilityaid.org enhance the level of medical facilities in the developing world.

As I had heard from Kim, Alexis explained to me that in most Ugandan hospitals patients must supply their own linens, food, etc. and relatives are often needed to help in the care because the hospitals are understaffed. Also, it may be that the hospital doesn't stock the medicine needed so you might be given a prescription in the hospital but someone would have to go out to a pharmacy to fill it. Worst of all, conditions in these hospitals are often most unsanitary as even water is not always available.

The situation at the IHK is different as it is a private hospital. The hospital is not as sophisticated as one that you would find in the States. However, the doctors there are excellent, many sophisticated treatments are available and conditions are sanitary-what they lack are certain specialists such as cardiac and renal specialists (any doctor volunteers out there?).

I had the pleasure of touring the hospital with Dr. Andrew, a general family practitioner, on Wednesday. I was most impressed by the facility which is only 5 years old. I saw patients being well attended and a very extensive, orderly and sanitary environment. There is even a helicopter pad for those who need to be air lifted for treatment. IHK is a place where I would be comfortable going for treatment or taking a student for treatment. Additionally, it would be a great place to serve as a volunteer.

Of special note is the beautiful artwork throughout the hospital which make it cheerful and uniquely African. Also, as a funny note, we were joined that day by Edith, a lovely young woman who is one of the social workers who works for Empower African Children. Edith had the hilarious misfortune of leaning into some wet paint which was not marked and well, you see the result above. We told her that she should start a new fashion trend in Uganda with her painted jeans.

Public Service messages

As I have travelled around Uganda, I have been struck by the public service messages seen on signs and billboards. While in the States we receive lots of messages about protecting the environment, avoiding drunk driving and living a healthy lifestyle, the messages in Uganda are different (although health is certainly a theme). Billboards promote monogamy, solid families, avoiding violence against women and most importantly, AIDS awareness and protection against HIV. One billboard that I can't stop thinking about (but I never got a photo) was one of a little girl saying "Grandma is all we have left because of the Sexual Network."

The AIDS pandemic has affected every part of this society and it is painfully evident in so many places. During my confrontation with the Kenyan officials, I was distracted by a condom dispenser placed next to the visa window - a sight which we would never experience in a government office in the USA but one that is an effort to save lives here. While AIDS is without question one of the biggest challenges for this society, I am encouraged by the visible, constant and deliberate messages sent out in a concentrated effort to fight the pandemic.

India in Uganda

One thing that I have learned about Uganda is that there is a close relationship with India. I had no idea!! There are a great many Indian people living in Uganda and they are known for their excellent business sense and for the trade opportunities which they have created with Uganda.

Many Indian families came to Uganda when both were part of the British empire. Sadly, their descendants (Asians and Europeans) were expelled from Uganda in the 70's under the horrific military dictatorship of Idi Amin. This action led to the complete breakdown of the Ugandan economy and the effects of Amin's regime continue to haunt Uganda today. In recent years, Indians were allowed to return to Uganda to claim their abandoned properties and businesses.

I was delighted to visit one of those businesses, the Khana Kazana restaurant - Fantastic !!! The Indian food there was as wonderful as the food in India and the atmosphere (even the smell of the incense) transported me back to my good times in India with my good friends, Matt and Shonal. You can find Indian food everywhere in Uganda and that has been a delicious surprise on this journey.

Another important connection to note is that of Gandhi with the African people. Gandhi felt a deep kinship with Africa and with the African people. His dream for Africa was the same as his dream for India - to be free and independent countries. His love for Africa was so great that, when Gandhi died, half of his ashes were spread at the source of the Nile in Jinja, Uganda.. I was lucky enough to visit the monument to Gandhi at the source of the Nile on Thursday (more on that adventure coming soon).

So, the love of Gandhi, the tea, the endless samosa snacks (available everywhere!), the drivers on the right - all reminders that the British Empire and India in particular have had a profound cultural influence on Uganda.

Sanyu Babies Home

After we fled from the Puff Adder Snake and enjoyed a Club Sandwich at the ARA, we spent the afternoon at the Sanyu Babies Home http://www.sanyubabies.com/ . Alexis thought it would be a great place for me to see not only for the good work that they do but also to learn about the possibilities for our students to serve as volunteers.

I first learned about the Sanyu Babies Home from our own Mr. Thompson because his son served as a volunteer there quite recently on a mission trip. He told me about the special relationship that the Sanyu Babies Home has with the Episcopal Diocese of Dallas and, indeed, I saw a plaque at the home in honor of the Episcopal Diocese. It was very meaningful to me that this wonderful home which cares for the "abandoned, destitute and orphaned children of Uganda" has a connection to Dallas and, through the Thompson family, to Ursuline.

The Home was very impressive with its dedicated staff, cheerful colors and irresistible babies. When we visited, there were several volunteers there helping to care for the 50 or so babies currently living in the home. But, of course, they could use more help. And we were not just observers, we quickly joined in by playing with the babies who so wanted our attention. I spent quite a while with Martha who enjoyed pulling my eyelashes. There was also one darling little boy who clung to me and made it very, very difficult to leave. I even shocked myself by asking "So, what does one do to adopt a baby here?" thinking that maybe I could just take him with me and no one would mind if I were to return home with this precious bundle (Mom & Daddy, don't get too excited). That's when I learned that, of course, the procedure is long and bureaucratic and foreigners need to reside in Uganda for a period of time in order to be "monitored." I was glad to learn that so much care goes into finding the right family for each child but I was also very sad to think that many are never placed with a family.

As I mentioned, there were several volunteers at the Home. Two who impressed me tremendously were Maddie and Sarah, two American Juniors from the Brooks School in Andover, Massachusetts. It turns out that they are exchange students and that they will be taking two Ugandan students back to the USA with them when they go home after their 5 week stay in Uganda. We had a lively conversation about their experience at Kings College Budo, their Ugandan school. They looked super sharp in the school uniform and I was really sorry that my camera battery chose that moment to run out because they were playing so joyfully with the babies. The girls could not have been more lovely and articulate and they reminded me so much of our Ursuline students. Brooks school, snaps to you!! You can be very proud of the way your students are representing you around the world!!

Take a look..

I am thrilled to report that some of my technology challenges have been resolved by my recent access to very high speed internet. So, I have finally been able to post some videos from our visit on Monday to St. Catherine's school - please take a look below...

Staying at the ARA

The ARA (American Recreation Association) is a cheerful home away from home where the American staff of Empower African Children stays when they are in Uganda. It is a small hotel (12 rooms) and also serves as a social club for Americans living in Uganda. It has American Embassy Security so it is not only comfortable but also very safe. I was not able to stay there the first night because they were full and then I ended up staying at my hotel because I was settled in and I was very happy with the excellent accommodations and good internet (for a while anyway). However, I certainly plan to stay at the ARA in the future and think it would be an ideal place for our students to stay. Not only is it safe, clean and comfortable but it also boasts lots of kid-friendly areas such as a beautiful pool.

EAC School site & SNAKE encounter!!!

Greetings!! I have had some serious Internet issues the last two days but am happy to report my return to cyber space. My time in Africa is drawing to a close but I still have lots to report so I'll keep blogging until I get back to Big D (I'll be stopping off in the UK briefly to pay a short visit to my dear friend and fellow UA alum, Cecile M.).

Sooo, we last left off as we were dusting off from our festive time at St. Catherine's. On Tuesday morning, I accompanied Scooby and the gang (ok - Alexis and the gang) to see the land where the Empower African Children school will be built. It is a beautiful site on a hill overlooking a valley. At this meeting were Alexis, Agnes, Jeremy (Chief Operating Officer & Puff Daddy - name to be explained momentarily), Jonathan (the architect), Annette (Jonathan's assistant), Michael (engineer), Mark (the surveyor) and David, consultant on water and electricity (a mighty, mighty task in Africa). It was a powerful group.

Knowing how talented I am at spacial and engineering planning (did I mention my luggage is exploding?), I took advantage of the time to relax and to chat with Zziwa, our amazing and profoundly kind driver. I learned that he has three children and that he'd like to learn to use the computer. I explained to him what a kindle is (see Amazon.com if you don't happen to know) and he was fascinated. He would like to travel to the US one day and he couldn't believe when I told him about our smooth (almost to the point of boring) roads. I am so glad I got to spend this extra time with this lovely man.

Well, it was all so calm until.... Mark the surveyor mentioned that (by the way), there had been an incident the day before. Mark and a crew were clearing the overgrown land when a Puff Adder Snake appeared in the grass. For those (like me) who don't know, a Puff Adder snake is the most dangerous snake in Africa and is (according to my internet sources) "reluctant to flee and willing to bite." It is a chunky, scary creature. The men killed it only to discover 24 babies inside which came flying out!!! EEEEEKKK! The dead snake and the babies (killed and placed in a bottle) were still in the area and everyone went to check it out. Needless to say, I could have done without this bio lesson but it was exciting nevertheless!!

Message to UA Students from St. Catherine Students

Here is one of many messages that the girls at St. Catherine's send to the girls at Ursuline Dallas. Get ready to feel the love :)!!!

Special Video from St. Catherine's School

This song made my whole life....enjoy!!

St. Catherine's School Kenya

Well, the trip to Kenya yesterday was worth all of the dust and difficulties as we had a fantastic and joyful visit to St. Catherine's Girls' School. We first met the principal, Sr. Anne Onyancha, in 2007 when she visited Dallas and came to visit us through Elaine M., one of our alums. We felt a special bond with Sr. Anne because her school was actually started by Ursuline nuns and then it was given over to the Sisters of Mary. It has been our mutual desire to connect our students and to explore ways to help support St. Catherine's school. Sr. Anne spoke to our UA students and, since that time, our students have raised scholarship money to help the neediest of the St. Catherine's students -many of whom are orphans or vulnerable children. The school has over 400 students and almost half of them board at the school.

There are many challenges at the school as you may imagine. Right now, there is no running water at the school so the girls have to go to the river (although you wouldn't know it because they are all so lovely and look very sharp and healthy in their uniforms). Also, those monkeys that I love so much keep messing with the wiring for the internet so it works only some of the time.

We were deeply humbled by the splendid and festive welcome that we received. Sr. Anne greeted us and invited us (Alexis, Agnes, Zziwa, his friend Simon Peter and me) for cake (expertly prepared by precious Sr. Gretchen who has only been a nun for a few months) and refreshments. Then, the students performed in a fantastic welcome assembly outside which included singing, dancing and gymnastics. As we sat at the specially prepared "Head Table" we could not have felt more special or more honored. The students were so kind and so talented!!

We were spontaneously called upon by Sr. Anne to speak to the assembly and Agnes and Alexis both spoke beautifully to the girls. I told them that I am so grateful for the opportunity to be in Africa and to visit them and that I have their picture in my office and that I represent lots of girls, just like them, who are in Dallas studying hard and wondering about the girls here. I communicated all of the best wishes sent by Ursuline Academy and I told them that we hope that they will meet our students one day. Sr. Anne actually announced our student gift of $3000.00 to the whole assembly and she showed the picture of the art club students (who raised $1000.00 of the money - the other part was raised by the whole student body during Catholic Schools' Week through "penny wars").

After the assembly, we had a little tour of the dining hall and of the dormitory which warmed my heart as it is named "St. Ursula" - It's next to another building, "St. Angela." When we were in the dormitory, the girls came rushing up to me to tell me that they want to meet my students and that they want friends at Ursuline. They also hugged me and all wanted to touch my hair which was so funny to me because I had been complaining about my hair all day. It was fantastic!! As if this all of this happiness weren't enough, Sr. Anne insited that we stay for lunch (she fed us three times in three hours). So, we ate yet again with Srs. Anne, Gretchen and Jacoba. It was hard to leave after being so warmly welcomed and I will be forever grateful for the beautiful afternoon spent at St. Catherine's school.

Border Trauma & Animal Adventures

Can you find the monkey above??

Goat Pallooza at the Kenyan border..

Well, today was full of excitement and commotion as we embarked on our one day trip to Kenya to visit St. Catherine's school. In the spirit of full disclosure, let me admit that I was in no way psychologically prepared for the challenges that came our way. We left Kampala at 6 am and headed east on the road to Kenya. Driving in the dark here is very scary because, with no highway or street lights, the road is completely dark - not to mention that motorcycles and pedestrians are constantly dashing out into the road without warning and that giant trucks coming from the opposite direction blind you with their high beams. There is also constant dust and a relentless smell of fuel from passing trucks - not fun! Our excellent and faithful driver, Zziwa (zee-waa) has all of my respect!

Sure, there were a few fun and interesting moments such as when we came upon a huge flock of storks (a creature that I did not anticipate seeing here but it is everywhere, scavenging and circling above like a vulture). And, in addition to seeing lots of tea plantations and rice fields, I did catch my first glimpse of the Nile which was thrilling, of course.

However, the happiness that I was feeling about my globalness finally reaching the Nile was short lived as I felt nothing but fear and anxiety as we approached the Uganda / Kenya border. Oh my goodness - it was a scene worthy of Spielberg - massive humanity on the move mixed in with cars and bikes and animals - especially goats - goats were everywhere!! (and I am NOT a fan of goats ever since my neighbor in Dallas decided to violate every city ordinance by having a goat family in the backyard and I would wake up to goat sounds every morning- but this is a different story). Anyway, it was chaotic and became more horrendous and chaotic as we went on.

First, our once-jovial Scooby Doo van was rushed by men who may or may not have had an official role at the border - all offering to help us find our way through the madness. We made it to the little office where we had to get out to get an "exit" stamp from Uganda - which voided the visa that I just purchased at the airport 4 days ago (has it only been 4 days?) for $50.00 (great - I got to purchase a "fresh" visa a few hours later for a "fresh" $50.00 for the next 4 days..). Other than this fairly mild annoyance, the Ugandan office was ok to us. We were not so lucky at the Kenya office, a few feet down the road....

So, Alexis and I were the two US citizens who needed a visa from Kenya. We got out of the van, stepped into red mud, stepped around several goats (who apparently do not need a visa - they can come and go as they please) and fought our way up to the visa window with all of our stellar documentation. Well, we quickly learned that the Kenyan immigration officials are not eager to welcome foreigners into the country. I was given a very hard time by my official because I did not have US dollars and he "wanted dollars". I lost it for a moment and my former Dean of Students voice came out as I inquired "Well, do you take credit cards?" - Given that we were in a scenario filled with goats and carbon copies, this question was more than ludicrous. Luckily, Alexis had US Dollars so that got me my visa as well as a look of disdain from the official who summoned me into the office (booth) where Alexis was having a "conversation" with the other official.

As you would imagine, Alexis, as head of an NGO which works in Africa, has traveled quite a bit and has a pretty full passport. According to the border officials, this excessive stampage is nothing short of a crime in Kenya and shows Alexis' complete disregard for authority and for moral order - in fact, she could be a terrorist (according to Officer Friendly). Alexis was most calm and gentile as she was being reprimanded and sent back to the US embassy for more passport pages. She just cooed at the official "don't you see a little space here? couldn't you just place a stamp here?" He was not impressed but was left somewhat speechless by her innocent questions so he asked me "Madam, why don't you talk to your friend?" Up until this moment, I had remained quiet. However, since he asked... I responded with the same line I used with customer service at the Hotel Shalimar in Bombay which was, "Sir, I assure you that you do not want to hear what I have to say." I went on with "I will not be telling you my opinion here but I will be publishing it later on the world wide web." Finally, we left thinking that we would have to leave Alexis behind at the goat-crossing while we visited the school in Kenya. And this is when the official low point of the trip occurred. Going back to the van, I looked over the whole scene and asked Alexis "Well, should we step around the mud or step around the goats?"- a sentence which I never thought I would say in my life! We decided on the goats and that's when Officer Jovial came running out because he suddenly "remembered" that Alexis could get a visitor pass for the day - what luck! We decided that the officials just wanted the money and that they obviously entertain themselves by harassing people all day- nice.

So, Alexis got her pass while I sat in the van and was mocked by a very large and very loud goat and then we were finally on our way!! Unbeknownst to us, our difficulties with creatures (human and otherwise) were not totally over for the day as we were later harassed by a menacing bee and had to pull over in order to get it out of the van. There was one other menace named "Fred" who was a real creeper who came up to our window and pressed himself against it trying to chat with us - it was seriously creepy because he randomly appeared twice when we had to stop. One creature which I would have liked to see more of was the frolicking monkey who lives with his friends and family at St.Catherine's school but he also decided to mock me by giving us just a little glimpse of his monkey ways...

Well, that was the journey today (plus the fact that the Kenyan officials welcomed us back like best buds when we came back across - lunacy!!). More about the destination, St. Catherine's School, coming soon!

Celebration of Life

This afternoon we all gathered at the family home of Alexis' friend, Johnathan, who is also the architect for the Empower African Children school. Last year, Johnathan's father passed away. His father was a man of great character and integrity who loved singing (and he was also a very well respected architect). So, Alexis and the children decided to honor the memory of Johnathan's father by praying and singing at his grave site (which is on the family property between their home and the country club which the family owns and manages). The children sang beautifully and were a source of great comfort and joy for Johnathan and his beautiful family. I hope you enjoy the video - it was a real honor for me to be present at this important and intimate occasion.